How to Winterize a Camper Left on Your Minnesota Land
A lot of folks who buy land from us start the same way: they pull a camper onto the parcel, spend a summer of weekends there, and fall in love with the place. Then October rolls around and a new question comes up. What do you do with that camper when the snow starts flying?
You can tow it home or pay for storage, but plenty of owners leave their camper right on their own land all winter. It can work well, as long as you get it ready before the first hard freeze. Here is the simple, step-by-step routine we suggest for a travel trailer or small RV that will sit out a Minnesota winter in the woods.
Why Mid-October Is the Deadline
Water is the enemy. A single cold night can freeze the water left in your lines, pump, faucets or water heater, and frozen water expands enough to crack fittings and split pipes. Those repairs are a miserable way to start next spring.
According to the Minnesota DNR's State Climatology Office, the average first frost in central and southern Minnesota falls somewhere between the last week of September and the first week of October. Up north it tends to come earlier. So if your camper still has water in it in mid-October, now is the time to get it done. Pick a dry day, bring a helper if you can, and plan on a couple of hours the first time.
Step 1: Drain Everything
Start by getting as much water out of the camper as you can.
Empty the holding tanks. Dump the black and gray tanks at a dump station before you park the camper for the season, and drain the fresh water tank completely.
Open the low-point drains. Most campers have drain valves for the hot and cold lines near the underside of the unit. Open them, then open every faucet inside so air can get in and the lines drain faster.
Drain the water heater. Make sure it is turned off and has cooled down. Then open the pressure relief valve and pull the drain plug (or anode rod, depending on your model) so the tank empties.
Don't forget the extras. Outdoor showers, ice makers and water filter housings all hold water too.
Step 2: Bypass the Water Heater and Add RV Antifreeze
Once the lines are drained, you want to protect what little water is left in the traps and fittings. There are two common ways to do it, and many owners use both.
Blow out the lines with air. A blow-out adapter screws into the city water inlet and lets you push air through the plumbing with a small compressor. Keep the pressure modest. The manufacturer guides we looked at put the safe range at roughly 30 to 50 psi, but follow what your owner's manual says. Open each faucet, the shower and the toilet valve one at a time until only air comes out.
Pump in pink RV antifreeze. First set the water heater bypass valves so you don't fill a six-gallon tank with antifreeze. Then use the pump's winterizing hose (or a simple kit) to draw antifreeze straight from the jug. Open each tap one at a time, hot side and cold side, until solid pink fluid comes out. Finish by pouring a cup or so down each drain and into the toilet to protect the traps.
Use only antifreeze labeled for RV plumbing. It is propylene glycol based and made for drinking-water lines. Never use the automotive kind, and check the jug's freeze rating to make sure it suits northern Minnesota winters.
Step 3: Batteries, Propane and Power
Water isn't the only thing that suffers in the cold.
Take care of the battery. A lead-acid battery that is fully charged can handle very deep cold, but a run-down one can freeze and crack at temperatures we see every winter. The easiest move is to charge it fully and take it home for the season. If it stays, disconnect it so small drains don't run it flat.
Shut off the propane. Close the valves on your propane tanks and cover the regulator so ice and snow can't build up on it.
Switch everything off. Turn off the main breaker, unplug small appliances, and prop the refrigerator door open a few inches so it doesn't grow mold.
Step 4: Keep Mice and Moisture Out
To a mouse in the woods, an empty camper looks like a warm hotel. A few simple steps go a long way.
Remove all food, including pet food, bird seed and any forgotten snacks. Wipe out drawers and cabinets so there are no crumbs or smells left behind.
Seal the gaps. Mice can squeeze through an opening about the width of a pencil. Check where water lines, wires and propane lines pass through the floor, and plug openings with steel wool or copper mesh rather than foam alone, since mice chew through foam.
Pack soft things away. Bedding, towels and clothes make great nesting material. Take them home or store them in sealed plastic totes.
Fight condensation. Close the blinds and leave a moisture absorber or two inside. Cracking a roof vent that has a cover over it helps the air move.
Picking and Prepping the Spot on Your Land
Where the camper sits matters almost as much as how you prep it. Look for a level spot with good drainage, away from dead branches or leaning trees that could come down under a load of snow. Put boards or blocks under the tires and jacks so nothing freezes into the ground, and cover the tires to protect them from the sun. A breathable RV cover is worth the money if you plan to leave the camper out for several winters. Rules on leaving a camper on vacant land vary by county and township, so check locally before you set up.
If you're still looking for that spot, some of our current parcels were picked with campers in mind. Flat Vacant Lot For RVs and Building is a .71-acre wooded parcel near Cushing, and Flat Land For Campers & Building sits on a .19-acre lot near Vineland, close to Mille Lacs Lake. For a smaller budget, Corner Camping Lot is also near Vineland and is listed at $10,995 right now.
Checking In Over the Winter
Winterizing isn't quite "set it and forget it." Plan to stop by after big snowfalls to brush heavy snow off the roof and slide-outs, look for signs of mice, and make sure the cover is still tied down. Many owners make it part of a winter weekend of ice fishing or snowmobiling, which is half the fun of having land up north in the first place.
Come spring, you'll flush the antifreeze out with fresh water, reconnect the battery, check the propane lines, and your camper will be ready for another season of weekends on your own piece of Minnesota.
If you'd like a place to park a camper of your own, browse our current parcels and reach out with any questions. We're always happy to talk land, campers and life up north.
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